This train from Nice slows everything down, and that’s exactly the point

Back on the rails after months of interruption, one of Southern France’s most striking train journeys quietly reconnects the Mediterranean coast with the Alpine valleys, at a pace that invites you to look, not scroll.

Show summary Hide summary

Summary:

  • A direct rail link from Nice to the upper Roya Valley.
  • A slow transition from the Riviera to the Alps.
  • Small mountain villages reached without a car.
  • Seasonal routes that adapt to summer hikes and winter snow.

Some trips stay with you not because of where they take you, but because of how they unfold. The Train of Wonders is one of those journeys. From Nice to Tende, it follows a narrow valley where the scenery changes step by step, without abrupt breaks or shortcuts.

Now that the line is running again, travelers can once more reach the inland side of the French Riviera by train. It’s a simple ride, easy to plan, yet surprisingly rich. No spectacle, no staging. Just a steady climb inland, and the feeling of leaving something behind.

Traveling to the Philippines in 2025: what you should actually know before going
What chocolate tells you when you travel across Switzerland

Built to follow the valley, not to fight it

This railway was never meant to be fast. It was designed to fit the landscape, rather than reshape it. The tunnels, bridges, and curves are not there to impress, but to make the journey possible through steep terrain.

As the train leaves Nice, the shift is gradual. Buildings thin out. The air changes. The river appears, disappears, then reappears further up the valley. Each stop feels modest, almost discreet, reinforcing a sense of continuous movementrather than destination hopping.

Along the way, the train serves villages that haven’t been polished for visitors:

  • Sospel, compact and quietly historic.
  • Breil-sur-Roya, a working town shaped by the railway itself.
  • Saorge, clinging to the hillside above the river.
  • La Brigue and Tende, close to the Italian border and the Mercantour National Park.

Traveler’s note
This is one of those routes where the view keeps changing. You don’t need to switch seats or chase the best angle, the landscape does the work for you.

What reopening the line really changes

When the Train of Wonders stopped running, access to the Roya Valley became more complicated. With its return, a large inland area becomes reachable again, without driving.

For walkers, hikers, or travelers curious about quieter places, the train acts as a practical backbone. You step off, explore, then move on. No car to park, no road to follow back.

From spring to autumn, services run regularly, with daily trains during summer. On certain dates, a guide accompanies the journey, offering context, not commentary overload.

In practical terms, this means:

  • Easy day trips from Nice.
  • Direct access to trails and village centers.
  • A way to avoid coastal crowds while staying based on the Riviera.
SeasonService rhythmAtmosphere
SpringWeekends, holidaysCalm valleys, fresh greens
SummerDailyLong days, full access
AutumnWeekendsSofter light, fewer visitors
WinterSelected datesSnowy routes via connections

What this means for you
You can spend the morning by the sea and the afternoon in the mountains, without changing plans or pace.

Everyday life, seen from the train

What gives this journey its character is not only the scenery, but the sense of continuity. The villages along the Roya Valley are not staged stops. People live there year-round.

In Breil-sur-Roya, a small railway museum tells the story of the line through documents and objects, grounding the journey in human effort rather than grand narratives. Elsewhere, cafés open when locals gather, and lunch follows the rhythm of the day.

Travelers often notice:

  • Italian influences in food and street layouts.
  • Villages built for practical life, not postcards.
  • A pace that encourages pauses rather than checklists.

Nothing feels arranged. You observe, step off if you want, then continue.

Reaching snow without the usual complexity

In winter, the Train of Wonders is paired with a seasonal service connecting Nice to areas like Castérino. Trains and shuttle buses are coordinated, keeping the journey straightforward.

This option suits travelers who want snow without committing to major resorts. Snowshoe walks, open valleys, and quiet viewpoints replace lift passes and traffic jams.

Skagen, Denmark: A place that slows you down
Following the cheese roads of Savoie, one valley at a time

Budget insight
Combined train and shuttle tickets remain accessible, especially compared to most mountain transport options in the region.

The return of the Train of Wonders brings back a way of traveling that doesn’t ask you to rush or perform. It simply opens a path from the coast to the mountains, and lets you decide how far to follow it.Sometimes, the most memorable journeys are the ones that slow you down just enough to notice what’s there.


Like this post? Share it!